mandie_rw: (welsh costume)
The return of the Ferd coincided with the return of a moderate amount of sewing mojo over the weekend...coincidence? Well, possibly.

Didn't take any pictures (side note, I did, but didn't post them, which is basically the same thing) but I managed to finish up the sleeves and cuffs, which means...oh, hey, the Welsh gown is in fact done. Cool.

Accessories are a whole other kettle of fish, but it's at least wearable for the party, which is a definite yay!

Decided that the detachable lower sleeves were a priority (because cold is a thing in November) , so I also got those mocked up and cut out, and one seam on each sewn. If I use my spare half-hour in the evenings sewing they might actually get finished.

I Made A Decision last night and ordered a hopefully-inoffensive black wool felt top hat from ebay as backup. Welsh women most definitely wore men's hats as well, so it works, it's just not THE HAT. I'll still try and make THE HAT, but it's all a hot mess at the moment! At least it's mocked up...Still can't find my roll of buckram (how the fuck do you lose a ROLL of buckram) so ordered more, along with wire, because I'm almost out of that. THEN the vintage silk-rayon velvet I ordered to cover the hat (yes, expensive, thanks) came in the other day and I'm not quite sure it's what I actually want for this project! It's lovely and shiny but also much more lightweight than I was hoping. Also has a bunch of deep creases in it from being vintage. Hmmm. Well, that's not a decision I may have to make anyway, if the buckram takes a long time to get here! (Plus...I'm not a quick hat-maker anyway! I do a lot of it by hand, which is hard on, well, the hands!) We'll see.

Still, even if I'm not entirely put together quite how I want, it's all at least perfectly wearable for a first outing!
mandie_rw: (welsh costume)
I got a lot done on the Welsh outfit today, although I didn't take any pictures; I was wearing stays and petticoats for a good part of the day for fittings, and so was gently sweating all day - and looked like it! No selfies today, thanks.

I'd started the top petticoat yesterday, and got the panels sewn together and the hem bound, so today I wanted to at least finish that petticoat, which I did. I completely forgot to split the back panel so I could have a CB closing on a seam and didn't realize until I was pleating the petticoat into the waistband today. Oops - guess it's gonna have a side-fastening! (Most of the extants seem to close at CB, but I didn't care enough to unpick any hand sewing to fix that!)

Found my 1840s corset, so was able to put the fastenings on both petticoats, and then figured while I had it all on, I might as well mock up the bodice. I started with one of my 1770s gown bodice patterns, since the type of gown I'm making is pretty much a late-18thc-style bodice!

Why the 1840s corset, then? Basically I'm splitting the difference. 1 - the eponymous "Welsh hat" doesn't appear until the 1830s, 2 - there are  very few accounts of what Welsh women wore under their gowns, but there are a few late 18thc/early 19thc accounts that mention Welsh workingwomen not wearing stays, 3 - "Welsh traditional dress" hadn't crystallized as such until later in the 19thc, so it's really kind of a toss-up as to who actually wore this style of dress and on what occasion. 1830s-50s seems the most likely timeframe, and this kind of dress is mentioned as potentially being middle-class "Sunday best" for countrywomen during that time frame. And...they may have been Welsh, but I suspect middle-class women would have been wearing some kind of stays by the second quarter of the 1800s, at least for "dressing up".

Regardless of guesswork, plausible or otherwise, it's WAY easier to fit things over a foundation, so that's what I'm doing. ;)

Not to put too fine a point on it, fitting an 18thc bodice over an 1840s foundation kind of sucks! I'm used to being able to get an 18thc bodice pretty much wrinkle-free (apart from the "hey, I'm a body that moves and breathes, therefore there are some wrinkles" ones), but that wasn't happening for this bodice. They're not quite as tightly-fitted as 18thc bodices, though, and judging by the few actual visible bodices on humans (everything's covered with shawls!), theirs were a bit wrinkly too.

So I got the mockup to a "not too offensively wrinkly" point, cut the paper pattern from the mockup pieces, and left it at that. Will pick up there tomorrow!

mandie_rw: (welsh costume)
Hey, let's update while there are sewing updates to be had, eh? I'm sure it'll all drop off again once I'm back in school!

Been a variety of busy the last couple days (unexcitingly busy, not "let's update DW busy"), but since I actually had some motivation to Sew Something, I did! Not the not-wedding dress, as mentioned last post, but alllll the way back to the Welsh traditional costume that I decided to make and last posted about, uh, back in February?

I do still want to make it, though! Despite the fact that the "feels-like" temp is 106 right now, I can't wait for it to be FALL with cold NIGHTS and the wearing of snuggly WOOLS. And the Welsh outfit will be pretty much 85% wool, so it feels inspiring right now.

It would definitely feel less inspiring if the air conditioner crapped out, I will say.

A petticoat felt pretty manageable, and then I got to feel all accomplished:
yellow wool petticoat


It's done except for the fastening, as I haven't dug out the stays that I'll wear with it yet - hopefully the 1840s stays, provided they still fit, ahem. It's made of a really delicious wool flannel, in a pretty golden-yellow color, in a shade that I really cannot wear next to my face! I bought it as a damaged piece from Farmhouse Fabrics a couple years ago for a very good price, and the "damage" turned out to be some few dirt marks on the selvedges and back. It was almost a two-yard piece, so I had vague plans of maybe an 1810s spencer if it showed up and turned out to be a good yellow for me. It did not, so into the stash it went. Perfect for this, though!

The top & waistband are bits of pink linen from the scrap bin that look really dire with the yellow, honestly - I adore historical clashing colors but this particular set just looks barfy. It's destined to be an under-petticoat though, so I really don't care...the pink was the first big piece I pulled out of the bin!

I bound the hem with some black twill tape, partly because it makes a nice contrast, and partly because the flannel's really too fat to make a nice hem.



Research note: Yellow definitely wasn't as common as the combinations of red, black, navy, and grey (link to my main helpful source here, with lots of petticoats!); there are no extants that I could find in yellow, but there are a few color illustrations from the 1830s-60s (like here and here) that involve some kind of yellow somewhere in the outfit, so yellow isn't completely unheard of!

December 2024

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