mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
So I admit it's maybe not the MOST THRILLING PLACE in winter, but it's my birthday I do what I want. *shifty eyes* I love a good garden, even in winter. When I have my estate it will have to have a well-maintained park. Heh.

And we discovered that "it's her birthday" is apparently a totally valid explanation to the public when you're dressed up. That it's just for fun is totally weird, but a birthday makes it not weird at all. The More You Know. It's going to be someone's birthday all the time from now on...

I did not wear The Pimp Coat, though I did bring it. But I'd have roasted in it...walking and a scarf kept me quite warm! Too warm at times actually.


Read more... )
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
And on time! Barely.

My Birfday Outing is next Sunday (I'd extend the invite to anybody local again, but there aren't too many people I can wheedle into partly-outdoor events in twenty-something degree weather, I know), but in the interests of full disclosure, I wanted to finish in time to submit it for the Your Wardrobe Unlock'd competition. The deadline's tomorrow at 5pm, so, for me? I Done Good.

(I have no illusions that I'd win, but it gave me a very convenient deadline, and some motivation! We like motivation.)

Plus this gives me a whole week to make the coat that I will definintely need! Feathers-feathers-feathers. (Actually not quite as many feathers as intended, as they're sold by weight not length, and I was hoping they'd be longer than they turned out to be. Oh well. Will still have feathers up to my ears, that's the important part!)

I posted way too many pictures on my blog and nattered on about it there (I guess I like this dress since I couldn't pick just a few shots, haha), so I'll just link you to it.
mandie_rw: (fort mifflin)
Sewing! Yesterday I made a chemisette-thing that I am not entirely enamoured with and will probably remake. I thought I wanted a pleated ruff-type-collar-thing but it appears that maybe I don't.

And then today I did the skirt facing. You may notice I've left the sleeves til last...
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
The bones are in. *flops* Thankfully. My poor widdle fingers are tired of sewing through this cotton. Mocked up and cut out the sleeves too.Starting with a pattern really cuts down on the futzing; if I didn't have chicken arms I wouldn't have needed to futz much at all!

At least it's not like the coat sleeves from the Laughing Moon pattern...those things were absurdly big on me! This adjustment was much more reasonable.

And here is the very attractively boned bodice. I don't have any steels or casings, so as usual just made it up with what I had on hand. The cable ties were great for seven of the nine seams/darts, but those side-back seams were way too curved. I can make a tie curve a bit, but not that much. My options, then, were either cording or reed, and reed seemed like the lesser of the two evils. It may well break at some point, but I can always replace it with steels if this turns out to be an often-worn dress. As long as it doesn't happen while I'm wearing it. There are two reeds in both channels, anyway. Reed or steel, I sewed them into strips of canvas, and then tacked them to the bodice. (The four boned darts are in the wool fronts, which you can't see. I thought it'd be overkill to bone the waistcoat too...)

And it turns out the long bones in those side-back seams hold the skirt volume back in place quite nicely, so I think horizontal ties won't be necessary. Good. One less thing to do.

I didn't put it on with the corset, but even without I can tell that those bones make quite a difference. I certainly won't claim no wrinkles, but I'm pretty pleased with how smooth it is. Bone your late Victorian bodices! That's your PSA for the day.

Oh, also: I decided to be smart and practice doing my hair for this outfit. As usual I had no clue what I was doing, but c1880 daytime styles seem to be relatively simple. The difficult part is going to be getting little wispies from my pinned-back "fringe" to stop falling in my face! Will probably practice again tomorrow (and wear it to work and look like a nutter. Could be much weirder, who are we kidding).
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
(This is me updating, and therefore not being at work. Amusingly, it seems like we won't get much, if any, snow at all, but thanks for canceling my shift!) So...slow! I think it's going to be nice when it's done, and I'm very much looking forward to wearing it, but I would also very much like if it would finish itself.

All I did today was tack the facing down, which sounds very pathetic, but the polished cotton lining's very tightly woven, so it was difficult to just stitch through the lining and not catch the wool. Annoying. So! Tomorrow I need to cut and sew in the rest of the boning, and then either do the sleeves or the skirt facing, whichever seems less terrible when I get to it. Also hooks and eyes for the front, whenever I feel inspired to corset up (so maybe not tomorrow).

World's most unimpressive picture of the dress so far. Turnbacks are unironed and untacked, and I didn't put it over the skirt. But, proof I haven't just been napping!


Though let's be honest, naps are awesome.

I also mostly decided on the fabric to use for the coat to go over this, and so ordered the feathers to trim it with. I think I've decided on the light pink mostly-wool flannel that I bought without a purpose (because it was $5/yd), so I don't keep second-guessing myself, going, "But should I save it to use for this Thing I wanted to make when I bought it??" It's a pink-and-ivory herringbone weave; as far as I can tell with my very limited research (aka poking the internet a bit), herringbone's maybe not correct for a lady's coat for the time period, but whoops, I have it and I don't care that much. And it's cozy!

So I bought some white turkey marabou fluff for trim. I have a bit in the stash (reserved for Other Purposes), so while I was digging though my feathers, I pulled it out and said, aha! Originally I thought I'd get marabou boas for the trim, as they'd have been about 2/3 of the price, but it wasn't quite the look I wanted, so I kept looking. Payoff! The strung fluff's much fatter. I wore the piece I already have around my neck for a few minutes, and it was very toasty warm! So, fluff it is. Definitely worth the extra money.
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Got the collar sewn in (I only had to unpick and hand sew a little bit of it. I'm so not a tailor) and the facing sewn on - although not tacked down because I realized I have to bone the front darts before I tack it down. So that's what I'm working on now.

I may get a snow day for my overnight tomorrow (being snowed in at Joann's at 5am would be really high on my list of Do Not Want), but seeing as their models range from 2.5" to 15" total...they have noooo idea. We'll see!
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Jeez, those darts took for-EV-er to fit. I didn't have a ton of sewing time the past two days (there was, among many other things, a duck waiting to be made into soup), so it was all taken up by darts. Seriously. Easy to fit, but every little tweak meant I had to take the whole thing off, re-pin, put back on and button up...et cetera, et cetera. The joys of fitting on oneself!

Tonight I want to get the top bit of the collar pad stitched (it's small, so this seems reasonable), then tomorrow I'm off so I can get a good chunk of it sewn. We hope.
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
The natural for dress is now to the point of having to try it on to do any more on it (well, after I iron the seams), which is totally not happening tonight. zzzzzz
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
I'm done basting the pieces...at least, I think so. I hope so! I've started pad stitching the collar and skirt turnbacks (stupidly exciting) and can probably get the one side done tonight. After the other side's done I think I can sew the fronts to the back, which then means I can try it on and fiddle with darts. Yay.
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Overnight at work tonight, grump. Did sew, though! Much basting, and did the buttons and buttonholes, and the waistcoat fronts totally don't match up. Haha. Oops. Oh well?

I am so not a perfectionist.


And I took off all the buttons from my red and white striped bustle dress to put them on the waistcoat. Well, I wasn't going to wear it again anyway...now I definitely won't! I didn't wear it all that much, but it's still a little ratty. Not something I'd want to give away or sell. So, may as well use the bits from it! The buttons were just what I wanted for the waistcoat: flat metallic silver. And at a perfect price, too. ;)
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
So I finished the hat - trimmed and everything. Hooray I have a hat...okay, now let's get back to the dress so I have something to wear with said hat! It's kinda smart, though, I think. I was going to get some light pink feathers to go on it, but I tried out the white ones I had and liked it just fine, so, white feather it is. Save money where we can, right? Heh.

Crappy pictures, but whatever. Get better ones when I wear it, right? Proof it's done anyway!

Read more... )
mandie_rw: (fort mifflin)
So, since I went and did some unplanned and rather epic (for me) shopping today, I sternly told myself I'm not allowed to buy any more fabric for the hat to go with the Gainsborough dress. Yes, even that cheap faille! I did get set on having purple, though. No purple in Stash. Hmmm.

I did buy a bunch of remnants from work today, and one of them was our heavy cotton sateen...in white. And I do have purple Rit. Glimmerings of a plan!

And the nice thing about a remnant, is that it will actually fit in a pot on the stove. Hooray for actually keeping the water hot!

It did come out Very Purple. The faille I was looking at was a nice smoky deep purple...this is more, uh, vibrant. I did think about mixing some black Rit in there...but then it turned out I didn't have any black. Okay then! If it's really too obnoxious I'll go for one of my boring stash choices of navy or black, but we'll see. I'm not sure if a Really Purple Hat would be too distracting...

(I played with the color a little; it's dark in here! It really is kinda obnoxious though.)
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Apparently I was too productive the other day, so yesterday I felt entitled to lay on the couch and read in my free time. Don't want to, like, wear myself out or anything.

*shifty eyes*

Anyway, today I got the hat pieces wired and bound, sewed the backs of the dress together, and decided which buttons to put on the waistcoat (the ones from my striped bustle dress...well, I wasn't going to wear it again, anyway!). It counts!
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
I was very industrious today and mocked up and fitted the gown, which seemed fairly intimidating before I started. It did take ages to just cut the pieces for the mockup, but the actual fitting wasn't too painful. (Except for getting poked in the neck with pins, which was.) A good part of the fit is down to the darts, which are useless to try to fine-tune til I get to the real dress. I did end up taking a fair chunk out of the side-back piece at the waist, but it was pretty straightforward fitting. Which surprised me, because natural form's always seemed like a LOT of crazy fitting! Maybe on a back-fastening dress...which, no.

Also, I have decided that if you were going to draft a pattern to achieve the most fabric wastage, you'd come up with a natural form princess dress. (Or a Simplicity pattern layout...HA.) It's ridiculous. My 18thc/early 19thc sewing sensibilities are so offended by this waste of fabric! I didn't have a problem fitting it onto the wool, thankfully, since it's 60"...though I did manage to cut the very top of one of the back pieces into a void instead of into actual fabric. Whooooops. That is getting pieced.

And the waistcoat pieces fit on my 17" remnant of pink silk about as well as expected:

...that is to say, not very well at all! That's getting pieced, too, by hand as I can make those stitches less visible with a smaller seam allowance. The join probably won't even show, but just in case it does!

Also cut the facing for the train - out of nasty polyester taffeta because I don't care about dragging that on the ground! It's not that nasty, really...but it's something I won't use for outerwear any more, so I may as well try and get it out of the stash. (It's probably been in there for eight years or so...) Still have to cut the front facings and make the collar, but I think I'm done for the day. Oh and sleeves...but I'm waiting til I've put the gown together for those.
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
I finished the underskirt yesterday, but had another overnight shift (ugh) and then forgot to take pictures of it today until about an hour ago. And they're bad, as usual. You don't get decent pictures til I finish the outfit, heh. :P


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I cut out the buckram pieces for the hat to go with this outfit, and after careful consideration, decided I don't have anything in-stash that's sufficiently non-matchy but not horribly clashy to cover the hat. So I spent waaaay too much time fabric-shopping online, and I think I'm going to be good and resist spending for silk, as I've got a source for decent rayon-blend failles on ebay. Won't buy today, though. Must ponder!
mandie_rw: (literate-cat)
Okay, not finished yet. I did more sitting around and reading than planned. Still have to make and attach the flounces, tack up the hem facing, and put in the tiebacks (I seem to have lost my enormous spool of grosgrain that I'd use for that...which is a sign I need to clean up the sewing room I think). But it definitely is on its way!
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Full speed ahead on the underskirt for the Gainsborough princesse dress! I cut out the basic panels out of pink polished cotton - I started with the TV tie-back skirt pattern and tweaked it a little.

I put a panel of taffeta on the back piece that goes up to about the knees. There's a line of flounces at the hem, but as I'm making the underskirt separate, so I can wear it with something else if I want...I figure any other overskirt I make would be at least that long.

The front's covered in a gathered panel of taffeta, which I gathered (by hand, as the machine stitches are smaller that I wanted) in the middle, and sewed that down. I think I can probably finish the underskirt tomorrow, as long as I can get myself motivated to sew before dinner-time! Flounces, oh joy.
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
I was good today and sewed! Despite a spur-of-the-moment excursion into the city, to see the impressive amount of women braving the 25-degree weather in miniskirts. o_O. Well, not TO see them, they were just a fringe benefit. Ahh, New Year's Eve...

So I did a bit of work on my natural form corset, remember that? No? Me neither. I got it into a try-on-able state (putting that spoon busk in was all kinds of fun), and was filled with consternation when it was too damn big in the bust and hip...til I remembered that I'd accounted for all the padding I'm going to stick in there to give myself a figure. Oh, right. Carry on, then.

Still have to do a bit of flossing (nothing exciting, definitely more function than form) and the binding, but after that I can get cracking on the mockup for the dress. (ETA: Okay, flossing is too much work! I reenforced the corners of the gussets and that's good enough, I think.)

It's stupidly exciting on the floor, I know.

The dress? I'm feeling adventurous, and am liking Victorian again at the moment, so...
Read more... )

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