plotting post: 19th century edition
Jul. 5th, 2023 11:46 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
mandie_rwZe plans for ze next "big" outfits! As I said previously, not counting modern/vintage or UFO sewing. Heh. But this is a Fun Planning Post!
Which does not include Regency for Bath next year, because right now I'm not going to count on it. Will revisit once the medical debt is straightened out, but I'd rather think we're not going and then be pleasantly surprised we can manage it after all!
First! Because it's somehow topmost in my head, even though it's not the first thing that I'll need. Isn't that always the way...
Well, I got it in my head that I want a BLUE DRESS. Like the ELECTRIC BLUES you see in the 1850s and later, the blues that say HELLO WE NOW HAVE ANILINE DYES AREN'T THEY FUN. There are some particularly fun 1860s specimens on Pinterest. And then it occurred to me that I could make a blue bustle gown for Robin's spring dinner - theme for next year is bustle, so I need something new anyway, as the black and ivory striped dinner dress is now defunct! So, sure, why not a blue dress, I don't have anything else planned for this event!
So I dug through Pinterest, and while there are plenty of blue dresses, this one ended up being the winner. It's violently blue, and it's solidly at least 1883 if not later, which is perfect as I've been wanting to make a foray into the second bustle era for a couple of years now but haven't had a reason to do so. It's obviously not evening wear, but that's fine, I'm perfectly capable of copy-pasting from other sources. xD Add a train, and voila, day to evening!
AND Silk Baron was having its 4th of July sale, where you buy X yards get 1 free, which is not the most amazing sale ever, but is the best that they really do. So, a fairly large cut of cerulean taffeta is on its way to me, or will be soon! I don't have a swatch so I bought on faith before the sale ended, but as long as the fabric is somewhere in the ballpark of how it looks online, it's fine. I'm not trying to exactly match the original, "close enough" is close enough!
I have happy daydreams of actually managing to make both the day and evening versions for the event, and wearing the day version with one of those funny pointy-brimmed "French bonnets" that I've wanted to make for ages...but I know that's not especially likely! Evening version finished would probably be a good place to start...
In terms of unders, I'm actually not in too bad a shape. I have the Redthreaded 1880s corset, a chemise with a low neckline that should work, and even a bustle! Why yes, I do! It's been a long LONG time since I've done anything bustle (early 2010s!), and when I did, it was early-mid 1870s, so not the same shape. But! I made the "lobster-tail" one that's in Corsets & Crinolines, which is dated c.1876...and in the decade I've been costuming since, I've come to suspect that the lobster-tail style gives a much more 1880s shape. Fairly slim front, does nothing to hold out the skirt at the hem...just gives a shelf-butt! So, anyway, if I wanted to do early 1870s I'd make a new bustle. For this - hey, it'll work! It won't be a huge bustle butt, but I think my inspiration dress is more 1883-85, when the bustle is a more moderate size anyway.
I think I'll need to take the waistband off and refit, as it was a little bunchy over the hips when I tried it on, but will have to try it over the corset and see what it does. At the very least move the hook and eye over LOL...thankfully I gave the waistband a pretty big overlap thirteen years ago when I made it!
Won't be able to avoid making a petticoat, as the petticoat that went over this bustle originally is long gone, and was probably too full at the front for 1880s anyway. Which is fine; after the bustle refit that'll be the first thing to make for this dress.
And the other thing! A dress for Robin's birthday party this September! She decided on a Winterthur visit (picnic if the weather allows, unlike last time ha ha haaaa), with a Romantic/1830s-40s theme. I was kicking around the idea of a c.1843 dress with the zigzag cotton print I bought a couple years ago that just begged to be an 1840s fan-front dress, but the general population seems to be leaning into the 1838-41 transitional period, and you know I do love that era, so count me in! I'd actually be very happy to wear my red silk taffeta dress again - I sincerely love that thing, and it's probably still wearable since it laces up the back! - but outside in September, I'm not real interested in sweating through it and getting giant pit stains! (I am very unladylike and am a sweaty, sweaty girl in costume! Shhh.) :P Hopefully it won't be 90, but 90 is certainly not impossible in mid-September in the greater Philly area.
So...not silk, then?
(As Robin said, watch, we'll plan for 90 and it'll be 50. Ahh, weather!)
Conveniently enough - I've had a printed floral lightweight linen in the stash for quite a long time, that I knew I wanted to use to make a particular late 1830s Costume in Detail dress. It's obviously not a match for the original, nor is it exactly a period print, but it's definitely evocative of the era - fairly complex floral print in a pretty, "feminine" color. Hard to photograph; the ground color is probably best described as "periwinkle", and looks more blue or more purple in different lights.
I'll probably follow the original dress fairly closely, as it's one that I've loved forever (all those pleated details!)...although I may make it back lacing instead of hooks, because that's just so much easier to get on by myself. Back lacing isn't super common on day dresses at this point, but it's definitely around still, although it seems to vanish by the time we get into the 40s proper.
Speaking of uncommon, I think I also want to use a contrast piping. Piping is suuuuper common during this era (unfortunately, as I hate making & inserting piping!), but it's almost always self-fabric piping, or sometimes a different fabric in the same color (like silk on a muslin dress). But there's a dress in the V&A that has some very decidedly contrast piping, and there are one or two others on Pinterest that could possibly be contrast, if I squint at the low-res images. So I think I'll do it, if I can get a fabric I like! I'm getting a few swatches in the Silk Baron order, one of which looks like it might be a decent match for the dark blue-green of the leaves in the print. We'll see what works out for that!
I went on a scavenger hunt for the dress fabric a couple of days ago, as I did remember thinking I'M GONNA MAKE THIS NOW at some point, but only getting as far as tearing the skirt panels. So...was it in a UFO bin? It was not. Was it in the linen/cotton bin? It was not. Was it in any of the three "shit I'm moving let's pile random sewing room shit into totes" totes? It was not. Dammit where is it?!
It was in the silk bin...of course, why didn't I think of that? Also Past Me had apparently gotten ambitious, and cut out some bodice pieces as well as the skirt panels. What pattern? Who knows! Is at least one of those bodice pieces missing? Yup! Are they cut upside down from the way I actually want the print to run? Indeed!
Sometimes I gotta wonder what the hell Past Me was on. Good thing this was a 6+ yard cut of 56" fabric, I should have plenty to recut!
Thankfully I already have all the underwear for this, although I should dig it out and try it on asap; might have to move a hook and eye on the petticoat, ahem.
And I think I'm going to hand sew this baby - it's summer and I have the time, so why not? I'd do all the fussy trimmy bits by hand anyway, so may as well do the whole thing, then I get to say it's all hand sewn. :D
Depending on time and inspiration, I very well may make a new bonnet too; my brown velvet and dark green/blue taffeta bonnets both feel very wintery. My deal with myself is that I can make whatever the hell I want for this outfit, as long as it's all finished by Labor Day - Robin's party is the 16th, and of course I'll be back to school then. There's a sew-along on Facebook, which I'm following...I might not actively post there but I do enjoy seeing everyone's plans!
And now, this post has taken way too long to write, I need to go feed Pip!
Which does not include Regency for Bath next year, because right now I'm not going to count on it. Will revisit once the medical debt is straightened out, but I'd rather think we're not going and then be pleasantly surprised we can manage it after all!
First! Because it's somehow topmost in my head, even though it's not the first thing that I'll need. Isn't that always the way...
Well, I got it in my head that I want a BLUE DRESS. Like the ELECTRIC BLUES you see in the 1850s and later, the blues that say HELLO WE NOW HAVE ANILINE DYES AREN'T THEY FUN. There are some particularly fun 1860s specimens on Pinterest. And then it occurred to me that I could make a blue bustle gown for Robin's spring dinner - theme for next year is bustle, so I need something new anyway, as the black and ivory striped dinner dress is now defunct! So, sure, why not a blue dress, I don't have anything else planned for this event!
So I dug through Pinterest, and while there are plenty of blue dresses, this one ended up being the winner. It's violently blue, and it's solidly at least 1883 if not later, which is perfect as I've been wanting to make a foray into the second bustle era for a couple of years now but haven't had a reason to do so. It's obviously not evening wear, but that's fine, I'm perfectly capable of copy-pasting from other sources. xD Add a train, and voila, day to evening!
AND Silk Baron was having its 4th of July sale, where you buy X yards get 1 free, which is not the most amazing sale ever, but is the best that they really do. So, a fairly large cut of cerulean taffeta is on its way to me, or will be soon! I don't have a swatch so I bought on faith before the sale ended, but as long as the fabric is somewhere in the ballpark of how it looks online, it's fine. I'm not trying to exactly match the original, "close enough" is close enough!
I have happy daydreams of actually managing to make both the day and evening versions for the event, and wearing the day version with one of those funny pointy-brimmed "French bonnets" that I've wanted to make for ages...but I know that's not especially likely! Evening version finished would probably be a good place to start...
In terms of unders, I'm actually not in too bad a shape. I have the Redthreaded 1880s corset, a chemise with a low neckline that should work, and even a bustle! Why yes, I do! It's been a long LONG time since I've done anything bustle (early 2010s!), and when I did, it was early-mid 1870s, so not the same shape. But! I made the "lobster-tail" one that's in Corsets & Crinolines, which is dated c.1876...and in the decade I've been costuming since, I've come to suspect that the lobster-tail style gives a much more 1880s shape. Fairly slim front, does nothing to hold out the skirt at the hem...just gives a shelf-butt! So, anyway, if I wanted to do early 1870s I'd make a new bustle. For this - hey, it'll work! It won't be a huge bustle butt, but I think my inspiration dress is more 1883-85, when the bustle is a more moderate size anyway.
I think I'll need to take the waistband off and refit, as it was a little bunchy over the hips when I tried it on, but will have to try it over the corset and see what it does. At the very least move the hook and eye over LOL...thankfully I gave the waistband a pretty big overlap thirteen years ago when I made it!
Won't be able to avoid making a petticoat, as the petticoat that went over this bustle originally is long gone, and was probably too full at the front for 1880s anyway. Which is fine; after the bustle refit that'll be the first thing to make for this dress.
And the other thing! A dress for Robin's birthday party this September! She decided on a Winterthur visit (picnic if the weather allows, unlike last time ha ha haaaa), with a Romantic/1830s-40s theme. I was kicking around the idea of a c.1843 dress with the zigzag cotton print I bought a couple years ago that just begged to be an 1840s fan-front dress, but the general population seems to be leaning into the 1838-41 transitional period, and you know I do love that era, so count me in! I'd actually be very happy to wear my red silk taffeta dress again - I sincerely love that thing, and it's probably still wearable since it laces up the back! - but outside in September, I'm not real interested in sweating through it and getting giant pit stains! (I am very unladylike and am a sweaty, sweaty girl in costume! Shhh.) :P Hopefully it won't be 90, but 90 is certainly not impossible in mid-September in the greater Philly area.
So...not silk, then?
(As Robin said, watch, we'll plan for 90 and it'll be 50. Ahh, weather!)
Conveniently enough - I've had a printed floral lightweight linen in the stash for quite a long time, that I knew I wanted to use to make a particular late 1830s Costume in Detail dress. It's obviously not a match for the original, nor is it exactly a period print, but it's definitely evocative of the era - fairly complex floral print in a pretty, "feminine" color. Hard to photograph; the ground color is probably best described as "periwinkle", and looks more blue or more purple in different lights.
I'll probably follow the original dress fairly closely, as it's one that I've loved forever (all those pleated details!)...although I may make it back lacing instead of hooks, because that's just so much easier to get on by myself. Back lacing isn't super common on day dresses at this point, but it's definitely around still, although it seems to vanish by the time we get into the 40s proper.
Speaking of uncommon, I think I also want to use a contrast piping. Piping is suuuuper common during this era (unfortunately, as I hate making & inserting piping!), but it's almost always self-fabric piping, or sometimes a different fabric in the same color (like silk on a muslin dress). But there's a dress in the V&A that has some very decidedly contrast piping, and there are one or two others on Pinterest that could possibly be contrast, if I squint at the low-res images. So I think I'll do it, if I can get a fabric I like! I'm getting a few swatches in the Silk Baron order, one of which looks like it might be a decent match for the dark blue-green of the leaves in the print. We'll see what works out for that!
I went on a scavenger hunt for the dress fabric a couple of days ago, as I did remember thinking I'M GONNA MAKE THIS NOW at some point, but only getting as far as tearing the skirt panels. So...was it in a UFO bin? It was not. Was it in the linen/cotton bin? It was not. Was it in any of the three "shit I'm moving let's pile random sewing room shit into totes" totes? It was not. Dammit where is it?!
It was in the silk bin...of course, why didn't I think of that? Also Past Me had apparently gotten ambitious, and cut out some bodice pieces as well as the skirt panels. What pattern? Who knows! Is at least one of those bodice pieces missing? Yup! Are they cut upside down from the way I actually want the print to run? Indeed!
Sometimes I gotta wonder what the hell Past Me was on. Good thing this was a 6+ yard cut of 56" fabric, I should have plenty to recut!
Thankfully I already have all the underwear for this, although I should dig it out and try it on asap; might have to move a hook and eye on the petticoat, ahem.
And I think I'm going to hand sew this baby - it's summer and I have the time, so why not? I'd do all the fussy trimmy bits by hand anyway, so may as well do the whole thing, then I get to say it's all hand sewn. :D
Depending on time and inspiration, I very well may make a new bonnet too; my brown velvet and dark green/blue taffeta bonnets both feel very wintery. My deal with myself is that I can make whatever the hell I want for this outfit, as long as it's all finished by Labor Day - Robin's party is the 16th, and of course I'll be back to school then. There's a sew-along on Facebook, which I'm following...I might not actively post there but I do enjoy seeing everyone's plans!
And now, this post has taken way too long to write, I need to go feed Pip!
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Date: 2023-07-06 12:52 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2023-07-06 04:50 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2023-07-06 04:53 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2023-07-08 04:16 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2023-07-06 06:58 pm (UTC)Oh my can I relate!
I'm wearing silk so obviously hoping for not 90ยบ! It's been a weird summer weather wise so far so who knows.
I may or may not have looked through all your Valley Forge photos and I do love that red dress and would dearly love to see it as I am dubbing you Jane Eyre in it for sure. Robin is Lizzy Bennett after the last picnic and shall remain there in my (clearly strange) mind. But I really am liking how this other dress sounds and want to see it too!
Oh and I can't wait to see the blue bustle dress. I already have a bustle dress but it needs some altering plus a train added. I also need to make a lobster tail bustle. That cerulean is gorgeous!!
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Date: 2023-07-08 04:24 am (UTC)Seriously, this weather has been alllll over the place. I couldn't even venture to predict what the heck it's actually going to be by mid-September.
Haha, Valley Forge was such a great location for a Poe picnic! I've gotten to wear that red dress a few times; it's probably one of my favorites. It's always nice to have a backup if my plans fall through - I'm hoping with the FB sew-along I'll keep my motivation and focus going! (Or I could start four other projects and finish none of them, that's also classic Amanda.)
Yessss, bustle! I'm also very excited for that; when the blue taffeta comes in I'm going to leave it out for a while just so I can pet it. :D