working on the gown, finally

Monday: Finished cartridge pleating the kirtle, and tried it all on so I could mock up and fit the gown bodice. The front of the kirtle skirts need to be unpicked, repleated and resewn, because they hang weirdly, and because if I haven't sewn everything twice on this dress, it's not really done, amirite?

Mocked up and fit the gown bodice successfully. At least we hope so. Also triple-checked my maths as to the cutting of the skirt panels, held my breath, and cut them all out. The upper and lower parts of the sleeve will be pieced together (obviously. Huge waste of fabric otherwise), and one skirt gore will have the pattern running upside down (I'm actually excited it's just one panel), but otherwise I should be all set.

Also cut out all the bodice pieces: top layer in damask, lining in taupe wimpy Joann's silk, and interlining of cotton onasburg. Just because it was laying around and I bought way too much of it.

Tuesday: Sewed the bodice pieces together and started hemming the edges. I decided to go back to 18thc construction methods; I'm so familiar with them, they go much more quickly for me. Don't care any more, wot wot. Still hand sewn! And I would like to note that I want to hand sew everything out of expensive silk damask from now on. It's so pleasant to sew through!

Today: Finished hemming edges, sewed the shoulder straps on the back (will attach to front at next fitting), and sewed the eyelets for the CF lacing. Ugh ugh eyelets. Tomorrow I was planning to work on sleeve mockups, but my period's making me feel barfy, so if that doesn't go away I'm not lacing into that tummy-squisher kirtle tomorrow. Can pick out aforementioned skirt front instead if need be; has to be done anyway!

The foresleeves that I never posted pictures of when I finished them, oop.

The hemming of these slashes was complained about, so I figured you needed to see what I was complaining about. And I did in fact run out of the darker red thread.

Admire my shoulder "straps" and my uber-awesome pattern "matching". I didn't even try. I did try to make sure the pattern at the CB looked ok, but that was it. Fabric conservation, yo!

The edge of the sleeves will just get stitched right over that strap and cover it entirely, so I decided it'd just be easier to use grosgrain ribbon that I wouldn't have to hem anyway. I did consider using other fabric for the part with the eyelets that will be covered by the placard...but then decided it would be too much work to save a couple inches of damask. They won't make or break me!

And the placard. It's getting an interlining of heavy linen with a couple reeds shoved in - haven't done that yet. This is the only piece I actually paid much attention to while I was cutting it out...