Pinning and cutting
Oct. 9th, 2013 11:36 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
mandie_rwAnd cutting and pinning, to prevent it from getting monotonous! *yawn* This afternoon and evening, I made my paletot paper pattern (say that three times fast!), and cut out and sewed together all three layers of the paletot.
Yes, three - the wool I'm using is dress-weight, not coating weight (because with all that wool in the Stash, I am Not Allowed to buy any more wool for a very long time!), so I'm using my not-period-but-very-handy cheat of interlining with cotton flannel to add a bit more heft! I just backed the wool with the cotton, treating them as one piece. I don't actually know the real construction techniques for paletots in the mid-19th century, so I'm using the common-sense approach...sew together the wool layers so I can trim it, and make the lining separate, putting it in after I do all the trim, so it doesn't get all mucked-up with those trim-attaching stitches! If that makes sense. I'm sleepy and slightly incoherent.
Here are the pattern pieces laid out on the lining fabric - Really Really Blue silk dupioni from Joann's. (I was going to get taffeta online...but then a 60% coupon came along, and I figured I could live with a few slubs for $8/yd. 'Cause...it's lining.)
And yes, it IS that blue. I thought that was a good nod to the popularity of those aniline dyes!
I didn't put it over the cage, so it looks giant and unflattering...not that it's ever going to be the most flattering garment I own...
I'm not especially ecstatic about the color, but it was the only wool I had that was light enough to show the dark contrast trim - and wasn't a drapey dress weight! And the sleeves are sewn together, but they're not going on til I trim them, since I suspect they'll be easier to deal with that way.
Tomorrow I'll be doing some hand basting (so the cotton and wool don't go wriggling all over the place when I try to stick trim on them!), and that may be all I get to. Possibly start trim-wrangling, but no guarantees of that!
Yes, three - the wool I'm using is dress-weight, not coating weight (because with all that wool in the Stash, I am Not Allowed to buy any more wool for a very long time!), so I'm using my not-period-but-very-handy cheat of interlining with cotton flannel to add a bit more heft! I just backed the wool with the cotton, treating them as one piece. I don't actually know the real construction techniques for paletots in the mid-19th century, so I'm using the common-sense approach...sew together the wool layers so I can trim it, and make the lining separate, putting it in after I do all the trim, so it doesn't get all mucked-up with those trim-attaching stitches! If that makes sense. I'm sleepy and slightly incoherent.
Here are the pattern pieces laid out on the lining fabric - Really Really Blue silk dupioni from Joann's. (I was going to get taffeta online...but then a 60% coupon came along, and I figured I could live with a few slubs for $8/yd. 'Cause...it's lining.)
And yes, it IS that blue. I thought that was a good nod to the popularity of those aniline dyes!
I didn't put it over the cage, so it looks giant and unflattering...not that it's ever going to be the most flattering garment I own...
I'm not especially ecstatic about the color, but it was the only wool I had that was light enough to show the dark contrast trim - and wasn't a drapey dress weight! And the sleeves are sewn together, but they're not going on til I trim them, since I suspect they'll be easier to deal with that way.
Tomorrow I'll be doing some hand basting (so the cotton and wool don't go wriggling all over the place when I try to stick trim on them!), and that may be all I get to. Possibly start trim-wrangling, but no guarantees of that!
