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and now we work on the tea dress
Jul. 18th, 2023 11:34 pmPopular opinion, both here and on FB, was solidly in favor of the 1916 linen dress for tea, so that's what I...didn't work on over the weekend! (Spent time with husband instead. Also a valid use of time, probably. He wanted to hang out with me, so the most sewing-related thing that got done was a decent bit of the cross-stitch cat Christmas stocking that I couldn't find after we moved and just unearthed recently! Can hang out with husband while cross-stitching on the sofa; can't hang out with husband while fitting mockups in sewing room.)
I worked on the guimpe today, which seems possibly counter-intuitive, as the under-blouse-thing isn't quite as important as the dress bodice that goes over it, but I always prefer to fit over all the layers, so under-bits it was!
My inspiration for this dress (in case you don't remember from when I started it in 2018 LOL) was the following illustration, dated 1916:
Miss Second From Left with the horizontal stripe on her skirt.
I'm not trying to recreate it exactly - the lace I used for trim is relatively wider than the illustration, and I don't love the collar as-is, plus the tiny back view shows that the bodice is almost tunic-like in the back. I have no interest in puzzling that out, plus I do like the idea of still being able to wear a shirtwaist with the skirt if I want, so I'm going to construct the bodice like a waist - have it close at CF and make sure there's enough length to stay tucked into the skirt.
I also decided to make the guimpe like a full shirt with collar and sleeves; I probably could have made just the collar/dickey piece and then sewed the long sleeves into the dress armsyces, but this way makes for easier fitting! I'm making it out of a lightweight linen from the Stash - very nice and light weight, but a little wifty and loosely woven for hanky-weight historical stuff. Like making little hand-rolled hems on 18thc caps would be an exercise in frustration. (Actually I bought it for curtains, two apartments ago. I cut the panels and never sewed them up, because making curtains sucks and is super boring.) Not too picky to use it for a mostly-machine-sewn 20thc guimpe, though!
Primary accomplishment for today was probably putting the buttonholes in the wrong side of the CF. Oops. Even if it was the dress bodice I probably wouldn't care, and since it's the guimpe I definitely don't care! At most the top button will be visible, and possibly not even that.
Other accomplishments include going out and setting up/moving around the sprinkler in 19-teens underwear. Along with taking out the trash. Well, I was fussing with the fit of a guimpe, I wasn't going to take it all off every time I needed to go out and move the sprinkler! If the neighbors don't know I'm a weirdo yet I haven't been doing my job.
Tomorrow:
I worked on the guimpe today, which seems possibly counter-intuitive, as the under-blouse-thing isn't quite as important as the dress bodice that goes over it, but I always prefer to fit over all the layers, so under-bits it was!
My inspiration for this dress (in case you don't remember from when I started it in 2018 LOL) was the following illustration, dated 1916:
Miss Second From Left with the horizontal stripe on her skirt.
I'm not trying to recreate it exactly - the lace I used for trim is relatively wider than the illustration, and I don't love the collar as-is, plus the tiny back view shows that the bodice is almost tunic-like in the back. I have no interest in puzzling that out, plus I do like the idea of still being able to wear a shirtwaist with the skirt if I want, so I'm going to construct the bodice like a waist - have it close at CF and make sure there's enough length to stay tucked into the skirt.
I also decided to make the guimpe like a full shirt with collar and sleeves; I probably could have made just the collar/dickey piece and then sewed the long sleeves into the dress armsyces, but this way makes for easier fitting! I'm making it out of a lightweight linen from the Stash - very nice and light weight, but a little wifty and loosely woven for hanky-weight historical stuff. Like making little hand-rolled hems on 18thc caps would be an exercise in frustration. (Actually I bought it for curtains, two apartments ago. I cut the panels and never sewed them up, because making curtains sucks and is super boring.) Not too picky to use it for a mostly-machine-sewn 20thc guimpe, though!
Primary accomplishment for today was probably putting the buttonholes in the wrong side of the CF. Oops. Even if it was the dress bodice I probably wouldn't care, and since it's the guimpe I definitely don't care! At most the top button will be visible, and possibly not even that.
Other accomplishments include going out and setting up/moving around the sprinkler in 19-teens underwear. Along with taking out the trash. Well, I was fussing with the fit of a guimpe, I wasn't going to take it all off every time I needed to go out and move the sprinkler! If the neighbors don't know I'm a weirdo yet I haven't been doing my job.
Tomorrow:
- finish guimpe - collar and sleeves
- mock up and fit dress bodice
- cut out bodice pieces and sew basic seams
