Flemish outfit started
Jun. 3rd, 2019 09:42 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
mandie_rwI'm on a roll! Well, sort of. More like here's a post to organize my thoughts, and read at your own discretion, haha.
I did in fact drape and fit the mockup for the kirtle bodice this afternoon. It's been awhile since I totally started from scratch with a bodice pattern, so that was fun. (Actually it kind of was!) Unsurprisingly, considering it's me, I made 2.5 mockups and called it a day. I'm making this as a completely unboned bodice, so it's definitely going to wrinkle a little bit somewhere, I'm not getting overly fussy with the cotton mockup.
Well, I might bone the lacing edges. We'll see how that goes.
Mockup process: Take approximate, vague measurements that the bodice might need to be. Draw on mockup fabric.
Cut out mockup. Pin together. Realize it needs more boob room and seam allowance to pin the center front closed. Recut. Fuss with one side seam for about 40 minutes because you have to keep taking it off and putting it back on.
Call it Good Enough For Now Despite The Back Wrinkles.
I've decided to only interline/line the bodice of the kirtle, despite making it in the gored style, without a waist seam. I waffled back and forth on that for quite a while, as there seem to be as many ways to construct these dresses as there are reproductions of them out there. Waist seam on the kirtle would be easier, but no waist seam will give a nicer line under the open-front gown. And the no-waist-seam version seems like a plausible descendant of the earlier medieval cotehardie. Mine's going to lace in back rather than front, but I'll still have a front seam so I can gore the skirt slightly...whatever, it makes sense in my little old brain.
Next step: figure out what the heck fabric I'm going to use. I've decided to allow myself to buy fabric for this (as I really want linen and only have one dress-length in the stash, which is black, which is not happening for outside June event) provided I use stash fabric for the 1898 dress. I'm well aware the gown would have been wool, if not both the gown and the kirtle, but since this is going to get almost exclusively summer use, and the color selection of tropical weight wool within my budget sucks...linen it is.
Currently I'm mulling over some combination of these colors between the kirtle, gown, gown lining, and separate sleeves. The brick-red color is a definite for either kirtle or gown, I just need to figure out what else I want to put together where. And figure it out pretty quickly, since I should order tomorrow so I can get cracking on this outfit! (Input welcome but not guaranteed to sway a decision, haha.)
I did in fact drape and fit the mockup for the kirtle bodice this afternoon. It's been awhile since I totally started from scratch with a bodice pattern, so that was fun. (Actually it kind of was!) Unsurprisingly, considering it's me, I made 2.5 mockups and called it a day. I'm making this as a completely unboned bodice, so it's definitely going to wrinkle a little bit somewhere, I'm not getting overly fussy with the cotton mockup.
Well, I might bone the lacing edges. We'll see how that goes.
Mockup process: Take approximate, vague measurements that the bodice might need to be. Draw on mockup fabric.
Cut out mockup. Pin together. Realize it needs more boob room and seam allowance to pin the center front closed. Recut. Fuss with one side seam for about 40 minutes because you have to keep taking it off and putting it back on. Call it Good Enough For Now Despite The Back Wrinkles.
I've decided to only interline/line the bodice of the kirtle, despite making it in the gored style, without a waist seam. I waffled back and forth on that for quite a while, as there seem to be as many ways to construct these dresses as there are reproductions of them out there. Waist seam on the kirtle would be easier, but no waist seam will give a nicer line under the open-front gown. And the no-waist-seam version seems like a plausible descendant of the earlier medieval cotehardie. Mine's going to lace in back rather than front, but I'll still have a front seam so I can gore the skirt slightly...whatever, it makes sense in my little old brain.
Next step: figure out what the heck fabric I'm going to use. I've decided to allow myself to buy fabric for this (as I really want linen and only have one dress-length in the stash, which is black, which is not happening for outside June event) provided I use stash fabric for the 1898 dress. I'm well aware the gown would have been wool, if not both the gown and the kirtle, but since this is going to get almost exclusively summer use, and the color selection of tropical weight wool within my budget sucks...linen it is.
Currently I'm mulling over some combination of these colors between the kirtle, gown, gown lining, and separate sleeves. The brick-red color is a definite for either kirtle or gown, I just need to figure out what else I want to put together where. And figure it out pretty quickly, since I should order tomorrow so I can get cracking on this outfit! (Input welcome but not guaranteed to sway a decision, haha.)
