mandie_rw: (Default)
I'm even tired of the word "beige" at this point, sheesh. But I'm quite happy with how it came out, and I think it looks loads better than the Ugly Shirtwaist! (Which won't be retired, like, ever, because it's great for hot weather. But now at least I have another option.)

Blog post here
sitting on steps
Amusingly, there was a truck JUST out of frame in all these pics...they were setting up for some sort of event, and there was an enormous truck and trailer just to the left side of the house. And half my pics had some rando in a red t-shirt walking back and forth in the background. Ahhh, gotta love editing! xD

And now I am totally going to be late to work because I wanted to get this all out of the way before I went! Heh.

things

25 Jul 2017 10:27 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
- At this point in time, I feel moved to almost offer my condolences to those of you going to Costume College; you guys seem so stressed! (Not all of you...but a lot.) I guess when you're a veteran it's worth it...? but as someone who's never been, it sounds pretty miserable at this point!

- Beige print bodice of never-ending-ness and its silly cuffs are done, although not in time to get pics today. Hurray! This damn thing's dragged on waaaaay too long (long enough that I'm tired of the bottom half before I ever got to wear the top half!).

- I've gotten fairly tired of my red spoon bonnet (yes, I'm still keeping Gettysburg in mind, even as I work on Belvidere); after all, I've been wearing it since 2011! I still love the color (shocking I know), but it was a synthetic, albeit a decent one, and it's fairly crap construction-wise, involving a polyester lining and even *gasp* glue. I know. 2011 was a long time ago. *grin* But I sternly told myself I wasn't allowed to replace it unless I sold it off first. Amazingly, somebody bought it (actually two somebodies tried to buy it), and I sent it off today. So that'll just about pay for the two yards of taffeta to cover and trim the new one! Well, it'll be two yards if I go with the navy option, as I would trim that in pink...but I keep coming back to a brick red and copper shot that's baaaaasically the same color as the bonnet I just got rid of! I might have a fixation on dark reds, you guys.

(The solution here is obviously to make two bonnets. Ha ha ha.)

mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
I thought I was almost done...but then as I was ironing the pleats of voile for the white collar, it occurred to me that I ought to have cuffs as well! Damn. Wish it hadn't occurred to me, haha. I could make plain ones, but I know that pleated ones to match the collar (and the upper side of the dress fabric cuffs, for that matter) will look better. Okay, okay...

It's supposed to be in the low 80s tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'll gussy up and get photos one of those days (it might rain tomorrow so I can't promise tomorrow). And then I can wad the whole thing up into my 19thc costume bin and be done with it, whew! It's been hanging around for far too long. And then back to the dinner dress! I think.

mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Second Boer War, to be specific.

(The Facebook event just said "Boer War", mind you, with no dates. Apparently this is colloquial for the second war...but as 1/ we didn't know this til yesterday as that's when the park put up the event description, and 2/ none of us have c.1900 summer dresses anyway...we cheerfully assumed it was the first war in the early 1880s, as that's what we have clothes for. As assumed...nobody cared. *grin*)
boer war 1
Read more... )

Robin's flickr album here

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mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
I was pretty lazy as regards sewing today...I could have gotten the bodice all finished if I'd really tried, but...didn't. xD Tonight I tried it on, "it's really almost done! just need to finish the neck! I could totally wear this tomorrow!", but only had it on for about 35 seconds before I remembered why I wasn't pushing myself to finish and wear it tomorrow. Hot! (The sewing room is un-air-conditioned, and it's still 82 at midnight. Shirtwaist 'tis!)

So I just need to put a facing in the neck edge - Bodice Take 1 had a collar, but that collar doesn't fit anymore, plus the fit of the neck at the back is just a wee bit funky still, and it's a lot more obvious with a collar on. I did a brief survey of my books, and it looks like a ton of early 1880s had just a white collar, rather than a dress-collar-and-white-collar combo. So I have zero qualms about doing a plain finish! (I could pipe it, but I don't want to and you can't make me.) I do still have to make a white collar to tack in, unless the one from my blue wool 1878 dress will work. Don't think it will as that's a v-neckline and this one is much higher, but we'll see.



oops

21 Jul 2017 11:30 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Sewed in the side wedges properly, and reboned all the seams today - and then noticed I'd managed to sew it with the bodice front twisted round itself. Whoops. I'll just unpick the shoulder seam, as that's the path of least resistance...

Tomorrow.

(Forecast for Sunday is currently in the mid-80s, so I don't have any pressure to get it done in time for that! Ugly shirtwaist carries the day yet again.)
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Mostly successfully futzed with the beige bodice today to get it to fit - it's not really 100%, but it's vastly better than before. (And when all's said and done...it's not the most attractive print in the world anyway. So.) I will have to put a wedge in the sleeves to get them to fit, but I didn't have to piece in the front of the armscye, so that's good.
beige bodice front
I didn't get around to actually taking the basting stitches out, cutting lining pieces, and sewing the awkward fixer-pieces in properly...but I'm off tomorrow so I can do it then. (It's definitely going to be too hot to wear this bodice if we do go on Sunday, but I'd like to finish it anyway! Just putting it on and taking it off got me all hot and grumpy. I think I need to acknowledge to myself that just 'cause it's cotton, doesn't make it a Philadelphia-summer-appropriate dress...)
beige bodice side
There are some stupid side wrinkles that I don't think will come out even when the side's reboned, but oh well. I'll just consider myself lucky I could get the damn thing to fit at all and call it a day! Not all home sewers in 1880 had perfectly-fitting bodices, right? ;)

mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
I finished sewing the hooks and bars on this afternoon before work, but didn't quite have enough time to suit up and start fussing with fit, so indulged in flights of fancy re: my planned turn-of-the-century wardrobe. (My Voice of Fashion and Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns and Tailoring Techniques books arrived yesterday, so that helped with the distraction. The latter may be a bit beyond me, but I never mind having something to work up to, and at the very least the pattern shapes will be helpful!) I sincerely doubt I'll have time to throw a dinner dress into the mix, but it's very amusing to plan out!

Tonight I intend to get the buttons sewn on the beige bodice (yes, buttons over hooks...after testing out hooks and bars vs buttons for years, I've come to the conclusion that I generally prefer hooks to fasten tight-fitting victorian bodices! Much less annoying to do up! And then slap the buttons on top), which was delayed by my putting the buttons away while cleaning up a while back. Never put stuff away!

Also: spent money today I totally shouldn't have. But Dita von Teese added Philadelphia to her touring schedule this fall, and the pre-sale went up today...and I just couldn't not go! I'm much more of an enthusiast of Dita's style than necessarily burlesque in general (I think it's cool! but I wouldn't call myself an enthusiast), but I wouldn't turn down an opportunity to see Queen Dita! I texted a college friend who's also a fan..."can we turn this opportunity down??" "NO WE CANNOT!"...so I'll be going with her on September 15th. Woo!

(Well I think I need a new dress...!)

mandie_rw: (sew all the things!)
We might go to a Boer War event this weekend at a local-ish fort (if it's not 90F, which it probably will be), so I felt vaguely inspired today to start fixing my beige cotton print bodice instead of continuing on the dinner dress bodice mockup. It's not really wandering very far off, as I want it for Belvidere too...unless it's hot enough that I have to wear the Ugly Shirtwaist yet again.

I can't remember what details I posted about the bad fit of the beige print bodice so I'll recap - basically I used my pattern taken from a fabric mockup that had stretched a lot and I didn't realize (that's what I get for being lazy and not cutting it out on paper the first time I used it, for my first natural form dress a couple years ago!)...so I sewed it almost all together before realizing it totally didn't fit. Not like, oh, I'll just have to add an underlap and put the buttons all the way over, but the CF edges didn't even meet, and the armscye was pinchy at the front. Which I then tried to easy-fix by letting out a dart, fussing with the shoulder seams, and pretending it fit, and I got it pretty close to done before acknowledging that it'd be embarrassing to wear a bodice that fit like that. Which was where I left it the week before Belvidere last year! I knew I'd have to take a good bit of it apart, and Didn't Want To.

So, more recently, I took the step of undoing all the work I needed to, to start fixing the damn thing. Took the collar and sleeves off, unpicked the bottom facing, boning and the waist stay from the side seam and took said seam out. I pinned rough strips of fabric into the let-out seam and tried the thing on with a corset today to check and see if that side-seam-fix would be my best plan. Yup.

It's going to be a very stupidly-shaped piece of fabric once it's fitted, but it'll work. And less obvious than sticking something in CF, which was the only other option (best practice would have been to just recut the fronts, but I don't have enough fabric left for that!). I may have to piece in the front of the armscyes (as I'm a meticulous seam-trimmer, and had already notched/tacked down all the SA, of course) and put a wedge in the sleeve armpit since it was a smooth-fitting sleeve and the armscye might now be too big for it...but maybe not.

I put the second dart back in the fronts, and I'm in the process of sewing on 10,00 hooks & bars, since I think my best plan is to have the closure done before fine-tuning the weirdo side-wedges!

All this and I'm fairly sure it'll be too hot on Sunday to want to go to the fort anyway. But I want this bodice fixed up either way!

mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
I probably could have gone to a department store's maternity section and gotten the same shirt for a lot less effort...but then it would be made of poly-cotton, so, nah. It's really so dumpy that it bypasses "depressingly unflattering" and goes right to "entertainingly unflattering". Usually I like to put up a "crappy pictures" disclaimer, but this doesn't look much better in person...

BUT YAY IT'S DONE I WON'T ROAST

AS MUCH


Now that I've made one, I'm even less convinced that shirtwaists vanished entirely for 20 years, as they're perfect pregnant-lady garments. (NO, I am not wearing this shirtwaist untucked, but I still wouldn't be surprised if somebody congratulated me, heh. While I down obviously-alcoholic drinks...)

Verdict: Embarassingly ugly, but my friends assure me they'll still be seen with me, so it's ok! (Although I hadn't posted pictures when they said that...)

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