mandie_rw: (1860sgburg)
mandie_rw ([personal profile] mandie_rw) wrote2013-10-09 11:36 pm
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Pinning and cutting

And cutting and pinning, to prevent it from getting monotonous! *yawn* This afternoon and evening, I made my paletot paper pattern (say that three times fast!), and cut out and sewed together all three layers of the paletot.

Yes, three - the wool I'm using is dress-weight, not coating weight (because with all that wool in the Stash, I am Not Allowed to buy any more wool for a very long time!), so I'm using my not-period-but-very-handy cheat of interlining with cotton flannel to add a bit more heft! I just backed the wool with the cotton, treating them as one piece. I don't actually know the real construction techniques for paletots in the mid-19th century, so I'm using the common-sense approach...sew together the wool layers so I can trim it, and make the lining separate, putting it in after I do all the trim, so it doesn't get all mucked-up with those trim-attaching stitches! If that makes sense. I'm sleepy and slightly incoherent.

Here are the pattern pieces laid out on the lining fabric - Really Really Blue silk dupioni from Joann's. (I was going to get taffeta online...but then a 60% coupon came along, and I figured I could live with a few slubs for $8/yd. 'Cause...it's lining.)


And yes, it IS that blue. I thought that was a good nod to the popularity of those aniline dyes!

I didn't put it over the cage, so it looks giant and unflattering...not that it's ever going to be the most flattering garment I own...




I'm not especially ecstatic about the color, but it was the only wool I had that was light enough to show the dark contrast trim - and wasn't a drapey dress weight! And the sleeves are sewn together, but they're not going on til I trim them, since I suspect they'll be easier to deal with that way.

Tomorrow I'll be doing some hand basting (so the cotton and wool don't go wriggling all over the place when I try to stick trim on them!), and that may be all I get to. Possibly start trim-wrangling, but no guarantees of that!

[identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com 2013-10-10 03:38 am (UTC)(link)
Looking good! (I like the blue-- a surprising lining is always really cool!)
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[identity profile] mandie-rw.livejournal.com 2013-10-12 03:42 am (UTC)(link)
Thanks! I think a properly deployed fun lining is a great thing - though it probably won't be seen unless somebody's looking up my sleeves...which would be weird, haha. I'll have to make a point to show it off. :D

[identity profile] heidilea.livejournal.com 2013-10-10 12:48 pm (UTC)(link)
Oh, trim will make that oatmeal fabulous! And I don't think it's all that unflattering, if you take it in context. The back is fitted nicely enough, and I can imagine it draping over the full hoop.
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[identity profile] mandie-rw.livejournal.com 2013-10-12 03:44 am (UTC)(link)
Well, that is reassuring - thank you! I don't know what I was expecting from mid-Victorian outerwear (it really CAN'T be that fitted!), but I had this horrible moment of OH GOD THIS IS SO UGLY. xD

[identity profile] danabren.livejournal.com 2013-10-10 02:35 pm (UTC)(link)
I just love love love your sewing entries!
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[identity profile] mandie-rw.livejournal.com 2013-10-12 03:44 am (UTC)(link)
Hee. Thank you! :D

[identity profile] koshka-the-cat.livejournal.com 2013-10-11 02:45 am (UTC)(link)
Dress weight wool with an interlining is accurate. These weren't made with coat weight wool. And it looks good so far!
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[identity profile] mandie-rw.livejournal.com 2013-10-12 03:45 am (UTC)(link)
Hooray! Thank you! I love when I accidentally blunder into doing something right... that is Very Useful Knowledge.