mandie_rw: (Default)
I got the body of the shirtwaist sewn together this afternoon. So far nothing appears to have gone horribly wrong, which is always good. I (very resentfully) French seamed the side and shoulder seams, since this taffeta likes to give off little wifty threads, and nobody likes their garments covered in little wifty threads. I exceedingly dislike French seams, as I always, ALWAYS manage to get threads from the first seam sticking out of the second, and the side seams here were no exception. Feel free to mock my thread-y side seams. This is why flat-felling is my preference but sometimes you just don't want another seam showing on the outside, hmph.

I also put in a tape just below the waist. The pattern doesn't call for it (like I'm paying much attention to pattern details ha ha ha), but I'd say a solid 90% of extant waists I've seen so far have some kind of drawstring/tape/tie to hold the waist in...which makes sense! I made drawstring casings for the back pieces, and then made a buttonhole at the side seams so the tape is outside the waist to tie in the front. This will make more sense when I take pictures of the waist...

I did take slightly less terrible petticoat pics today too, just 'cause. And trimmed some of the threads that were coming off the bottom of the cheapass eyelet (thanks joann's).
closeup of white eyelet on petticoat

side view of late victorian white petticoat with ruffle

Petticoat

27 Jan 2017 11:38 pm
mandie_rw: (Default)
Done at long last! So...at least I'll have underwear to skate in, if I finish nothing else?

I ended up hand-sewing the ruffle on. I used the gather-over-a-cord method, which ended up being bulky enough that it really wasn't too excited about getting wedged under my machine's presser foot, so it was really the path of least resistance to just whip it on by hand.

Far too lazy to take any real pictures of it tonight, but here's me wearing it over sweatpants and fuzzy socks with my feet on the table. Since that's how I roll. Still wearing it as I type this.
petticoat on a very lazy person
I did try the skirt on over it, and yes, the damn ruffle was worth suffering through. There's a reason a large majority of petticoats in adverts from the period have ruffles. It makes the skirt look so much better! I hate you still, ruffle. I hate you.
mandie_rw: (Default)
IT NEVER ENDS. Why am I not one of those people who doesn't care about proper undergarments...my life would be a lot less boring. And it's not even a complicated petticoat ruffle; just two tiers of shitty poly-cotton eyelet!

(Seriously, it's offensive in it's poly nastiness. It's a clearance Joann's eyelet from last year? two years ago? and it was the only wide eyelet I had on hand in petticoat-ruffle-quantities, but... *wrinkles nose* I particularly enjoy that a bunch of "eyes" are only halfheartedly punched, and not even stitched at all. GREAT quality, guys.)

There's only another couple hours' worth of work to do on it, but I'm planning on going to a protest in Philly tomorrow (the Chief Nutball, or, as the local news outlets still call him, "Mr" Trump [rather than "President", which I find interesting] is visiting, and we're making our displeasure known) and I have work after that, so I can't imagine I'll finish it tomorrow.

mandie_rw: (Default)
Sewing day with two of the usual suspects; I didn't get a whole lot of sewing done but I always thoroughly enjoy "sewing" days! Much tea was sampled, many chocolates were et, and I did finish my hat!

It's definitely on the plain side when you compare it to fashion plates, but less so when you compare it to photographs! Bad pictures:
side view of small round hat with mallard wings


Slightly less orange in natural lighting. And yes, it's got wiiiiings!

I also cut and sewed (and flat-felled) my petticoat panels. And, ahem, managed to flat-fell the CB seam inside out. Ooops? Certainly not taking it out, because, underwear, who cares...at least it's a very neat seam? LOL. I used the center front and two side-front gores from my skirt pattern and a rectangle for the back, because it seemed somehow logical. We'll see if it was when I put it under the skirt, haha.

Save
mandie_rw: (WC market)
Almost all machine sewn, because who cares (the hem binding is amusingly horrible - "oh, the binding edges don't match up? lalalala can't hear you!!"). Although I did end up stitching the waistband on by hand, as I made it quite narrow and the machine didn't seem keen on going through a lot of layers of bunched-up gathered cotton and staying straight on such a narrow line. So, less painful in the long run to do by hand!

Exciting petticoat is exciting. With bonus fuzzy socks.

It's longer than both the corded petti and the top ruffled petti, which is amusing but perfectly fine - both of those were made specifically to go with the cute, short early 1830s skirts, and late 1830s into 40s are noticeably longer. I also made the waistband bigger, so it'll sit a little further down on my hips rather than at the waist. Three petticoats on the waist isn't optimal for when the waistline starts moving down a bit! And I tried it all on under the cream poplin while I had it on, and it works for that too, so that's a good thing.
mandie_rw: (stevensgirlreading)
I decided I felt inspired to finish putting the flounce on my white hoop petticoat, and sewed one tuck in it before it got too hot in the sewing room, and I retreated to the sofa to gleefully spend five hours in a book. I haven't done that for a while and it was lovely.

The petticoat itself is pretty uninspiring; I should've just looked a little harder for an eyelet bedskirt. That would have had the same effect with a lot less effort! Stupid Joann's clearance eyelet. Which is a very optic white, whereas the petti is a more natural white. It's a look...good thing it's a petticoat!
mandie_rw: (1860sgburg)
Feeling loads better today, thanks very much. Am entirely convinced it's because I got a full night's sleep last night. (SO THERE, WORK.)

Finished the under-petticoat today. It is very petticoat-like.

And yes, I like large, indelicate tucks. They're more instantly gratifying than delicate ones.


I then started on gathering up my eight yards of clearance eyelet and putting it on my white hoop petticoat, but that got boring very fast. And then I remembered a Thing I could work on for Somebody, and that if I have it done for this weekend, I can give it to Somebody Else in person and not have to mail it. Which sounds like a good plan. So I worked on that Thing, which is hand-sewing and therefore good for being lazy.

*sneeze*

23 Mar 2015 11:52 pm
mandie_rw: (oldcity)
Definitely got a full-fledged nasty cold. Was entirely miserable yesterday at work, and called out of my overnight tonight. I'm definitely feeling better today, but I don't think staying up all night would do anything towards getting me better for the weekend! They did not seem Pleased. I don't care; I never call out sick (I haven't had a bad cold for two winters)! Suck it up.

Yesterday post-work all I did was flop on the couch and watch the marathon of classic Disney princess movies on ABC Family...seriously, all day. I hardly ever watch tv all day! It was fun, though; I haven't seen most of them for years. (And Eleanor Audley had the Best Villainess Voice Ever [Maleficent and Lady Tremaine], no contest!

Today I was reasonably productive though...especially after I decided to call out of work. ;) I did my wig...I'm dubbing it my Crackpot Whoopi Goldberg Wig. It is far from wonderful, but I'm happy enough with "wearable." I started out with directions from Kendra's book, and then threw all that out the window (because I was dealing with an already-destructively-ratted old wig) and started manhandling it.

(I should probably photograph a brown wig against a brown couch, amirite?)

WHATEVER IT'S DONE.

Should have probably tried working on the stripey dress after dinner, but that seemed to want brainpower. I'm feeling better but not that much better. Am fairly resigned that I'll be wearing the curtain-along dress at this point, anyway. So I made most of a new 1860s under-hoop petticoat. I have...um, three plain petticoats already, but two are warm and one is plain cotton broadcloth, and I want a pretty one to wear with my ballgown! A pretty one that isn't wool or fuzzy flannel to keep me warm at the ball, because I do not need that.

Three tucks and a bit of lace later...yeah, that's fancy enough. Just have to put the waistband on tomorrow and it'll be done. Then I can cross one (totally unnecessary) thing off my Gettysburg list!
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
No sewing today, but fun things in the mail! Got both my boots and my Truly Victorian patterns today. The boots fit, which is good; the 1882 tea gown pattern is going to take more futzing than I'd anticipated, which is not as good (seam placement, blah blah blah. More on that when I actually post about the dress design), but the underskirt and petticoat look mostly good.

Although the petticoat pattern does want me to use netting to pad out the back of it, and I'm going BUT BUT BUT I don't WANNA use icky nylon net! Trying to think of something that would be stiff but not nylon.
...Organza? That's stiff.
...I'm not using my silk organza. No.
Oh. Cotton organdy's stiff, huh? I did just learn that.
Okay! Barring any Better Ideas...some kind of organdy nonsense it is!
mandie_rw: (absinthe)
I'm going to a concert tomorrow evening with my mum and grandma, at Laurel Hill Mansion in Fairmount Park. The original part of the house was built in the late 1760s, the small addition in the 1790s, and the octagonal addition in the 1830s, I believe. (This is from what I can remember when we visited it a few years ago; can't find anything useful on the actual house's website, it's like a bad trip back to GeoCities!)

So of course I feel the need to dress for the occasion! (And I expressly asked mum if I would humiliate her if I dressed up, she said not at all, so off we go!) Going to be hot, and there's not a lot of space, so I'm going to wear my spotted sari Regency dress.

I originally had a petticoat attached to my Regency short stays, but I didn't like the weight of the cotton muslin I used, so took it off the before Katy's Regency picnic last fall. Later I bought some white China silk to make a new petticoat, but never got around to it. Since I'm going to wear Regency tomorrow night, I thought now was as good a time as any to do that!

Still have to hem it, but other than that it's all attached. It's just two widths of the silk (I only had two yards), and hits about mid-calf length. The front's completely flat; all the width's gathered into the back, and I even ironed down the gathers to minimize poof. I know I'm insane, as I love Regency costume flicks, love the myriad of adorable Regency dresses you all have made - but I'm three-quarters convinced Regency dresses make me look like a cow!

I know. I'm crazy. But anyway, yeah, minimize the poof. I'll just try to stay away from mirrors til I get out of my house and it's too late to change! Although I swear if someone there asks if I'm preggers I'm selling that thing on ebay when I get home!

Okay, off to hem!

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