mandie_rw: (jane book)
Even if it's only a belt, haha. The Usual Suspects and I are crashing attending a "Victorian Picnic" at a 19thc house in Philly tomorrow, and since the forecast temp is 86, the Fugly Shirtwaist will be making another appearance. (..Yay.) I decided I might dislike it less if I wore it differently, so this time we're trying untucked with a belt. I made it out of navy blue cotton sateen, interlined with a layer of drill, and hand-sewed it because I was too lazy to rethread the sewing machine.

I am a special kind of lazy, yes.

I also did a quickie trim-and-reshape of the last of my stash of thrift-store straw hats. It's navy blue braid, and not quite the right shape for anything so it hadn't inspired me til now. I don't know how much shade this picnic location is going to have, though, so I was inspired to have a wider-brimmed hat than the tiny one I wore with this outfit last time! Tied down, it looks reasonably like the "country bonnet" types you sometimes see 1878-82 - at least, close enough for me. Tiny-brimmed hats were unhelpfully popular in the natural form era...

mandie_rw: (Default)
Sewing day with two of the usual suspects; I didn't get a whole lot of sewing done but I always thoroughly enjoy "sewing" days! Much tea was sampled, many chocolates were et, and I did finish my hat!

It's definitely on the plain side when you compare it to fashion plates, but less so when you compare it to photographs! Bad pictures:
side view of small round hat with mallard wings


Slightly less orange in natural lighting. And yes, it's got wiiiiings!

I also cut and sewed (and flat-felled) my petticoat panels. And, ahem, managed to flat-fell the CB seam inside out. Ooops? Certainly not taking it out, because, underwear, who cares...at least it's a very neat seam? LOL. I used the center front and two side-front gores from my skirt pattern and a rectangle for the back, because it seemed somehow logical. We'll see if it was when I put it under the skirt, haha.

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hat form

15 Jan 2017 09:30 pm
mandie_rw: (Default)
Got my 1890s buckram hat form sewn together today (still didn't match up properly UGH but it's not that noticeable on); let's see if I can be motivated enough to cut out the flannel and silk tonight, too. Hmmm
buckram hat form from the side
It's actually very similar to the 1790s "seaside" bonnet from the side, interestingly enough...
buckram hat form, looking down
The polka dot binding strikes again!

mandie_rw: (creampoplin1830s)
And I'm reasonably pleased with it! It's helped immensely by the delightful plaid ribbon, I think. ;)

There are a couple of things I would tweak about the shape - a slight reduction in width toward the bottom of the brim, and I'd take out the upward tilt of the crown, which didn't look quite so tilted when paired with the ginormous brim but is much more noticeable now! Those are really just notes for my future reference, though; I'm not displeased with them, per se! That's the thing about making hats...they're like corsets in that you can't really see if they're what you want til they're just about done. (Except corsets are way more work, which is why I'll never really get good at those. Anyway.)

It's quite a dark bonnet so these aren't great pics - since it rained basically all day and was generally dark and dismal! Oh well, I tried. (And the bonnet is on the head slightly crookedly! oops.)


mandie_rw: (creampoplin1830s)
Behold, ye olde finished-minus-trimmings bunnit! I'm not entirely thrilled with the job I did covering it this time, as there are a couple weird wrinkles,and I managed to put a rogue snip in the crown silk with my overly-sharp Gingers when it was already half sewn on. If it had been for somebody else I'd've picked it off and recut it, but since it's for me? Eh, bonnet gets a darn! ...More than one, really. Heh. Naturally in a place that trim doesn't go to cover it, but it's not all that noticeable, so I'll live with it.


Up next: plaid ribbons! And/or mocking up the ballgown bodice, because that really does need to be done.
mandie_rw: (creampoplin1830s)
And, bonnet! I got it all mulled today, and started sewing the silk pieces on. Not Bad.

Here's a pic of the buckram form, with its amusingly wacky bindings. (Also blood splatters, since this has been a very dangerous bonnet to make so far. Here's hoping the silk manages to avoid war wounds...) I make my binding for buckram out of bits from the scrap bin and just keep joining them together, so things like this end up happening!
mandie_rw: (rose1950s)
Happy Thanksgiving to you all, from me and my somewhat-aggressively-autumnal-themed skirt!

Because I woke up considerably earlier than I needed to today, for no reason at all, and so decided to spend 3 hours or so making a very Thanksgiving-y skirt! Well...I guess it could have had turkeys on it, that would be even more Thanksgiving-y. But turkeys are ugly. (We have a pack of 6 that has lately started roaming the neighborhood, and they're hideous. And pesty. I hope someone got the fat one for dinner tonight...) It's another clearance quilting cotton print off the Joann's table that I bought earlier in the year and stashed (I need to stop doing that), and the stupid-simple "two panels of fabric gathered or pleated to a waistband" construction. This one's gathered because the pleats were being stupid.

Besides random pumpkin skirts, I took advantage of my day off and sewed all I could! I did take the mantle to our family holiday gathering, and got about a third of the marabou sewn on, so Not Bad on that front. And in between making the skirt and leaving for dinner, I got the New Castle bonnet pieces wired, bound, and sewed the blocked crown tip on. It's a little bit bumpy but I'm planning on pleating the silk for the tip over top anyway, so whatever. I might sew just a little bit more on the bonnet before bed, but jammies also sounds really nice, so....
mandie_rw: (creampoplin1830s)
Finally finished binding the mantle! So it just needs a hook/eye (forgot to buy a big one from work tonight, so that will have to wait) and the marabou trim. And I totally plan to bring mantle and trim to my grandmother's house, where we're going for Thanksgiving dinner. I do not have time to lapse into a turkey coma! Feathers must be sewn! (Said feathers happily showed up on my doorstep today, which is good as I was getting antsy.) I decided on a "pink champagne" color for the marabou, which was a good choice as I think it looks nice with the dull spruce velvet without being too in-your-face Christmassy.

The binding is decidedly woobly; if I'd not planned on trim I would have made a little more effort! But - getting trim, therefore I don't care. There are a few nicks in the velvet (clearance, so unsurprising) and naturally I managed to put pretty much all of them front and center. Oh well! Can't really see them in pictures so it's like they don't exist, right? ;) (And ignore the weird light/shadows. Late afternoon, doncha know.)




I also mocked up a new brim for my bonnet; I'm using the same crown as the peach one from this summer, but as you get to the end of the decade, brims are much lower, rounder, and closer to the face, although not quite the coal-scuttle type that comes in in in the early '40s. If I were really dedicated, I would make up a new crown that has more of a flare out to the brim...buuuut I'm getting short on time, and as a very transitional style of bonnet there are a lot of varations! So the straighter crown is valid too, just not what I'd pick if I had infinite time. Anyway! I cut out the buckram pieces too, and am trying my hand at a blocked crown tip...buckram is currently drying on its ghetto-tastic block aka plastic refrigerator container. Aww yiss.

Hat!

29 Aug 2016 08:15 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Very crappy pictures of it, but proof that it is in fact done. It's a fairly plain little hat, but it's to my taste, and it's going to be a relatively plain little cotton dress, so. I had a couple feathers on it but they looked dorky, so off they came.

Can you tell I'm ready for fall weather? ;) The taffeta the hat's covered in is burgundy and gold shot, and looks horrible in indoor light reads as kind of toffee-colored. Nice in person, I promise!

It's early yet, so I might be able to get the overskirt done tonight if I'm industrious (because, yes, it's still not done!)...
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)

[livejournal.com profile] sewloud is going to take it off my hands, so my time wasn't completely wasted on the Ugly Bonnet. Going to make a hat after I finish the overskirt.

It's not really that ugly, I just don't want it, haha.

And that is how much of the brim I had to hack off to make the pieces fit together, by the way. *gives pattern a Look*

Ugly Hats aside, I got the overskirt cut out today, and pleated up the front. I'm using the overskirt of the "Embroidered Cloth Dress" from p405 of Fashions of the Gilded Age. Decided to live dangerously and not make a mockup (it's an overskirt, how much can I screw it up). I pleated up a little more than I should have done, because it was looking too long, and then when everything was pleated...it's actually a bit short. Well, that's ok, I was originally thinking of making a shorter overskirt anyway! xD Plus I'd already basted the pleats at the side seams in place and didn't care enough to take them out. So, short overskirt it is!

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