mandie_rw: (fort mifflin)
I sewed one seam on the trousers, realized I would have to actually get the directions out to do the next step, and toddled off to find something less difficult. I wasn't going to make another cap yet, but I did want to find my Kannik's Korner cap pattern, as I know I own it but it's not where it's supposed to be, and I thought it might be with an unfinished cap in the UFO bin.

Well, I found the unfinished cap but not the pattern, so who knows where that wandered off to...I did some halfhearted cleanup in case it was lurking in a top layer of detritus, but apparently not. I know it's somewhere, but just where eludes me at the moment. I did, however, dig up a long-sleeved 18thc shift while excavating the UFO bin (long-sleeved here meaning below the elbow, unlike all my current dual-duty late 18th-early-19th short-sleeved ones). It's been in pieces for years...mainly because I started putting it together with the hem-and-whip together method...which I don't use much anymore because while it makes for a nice, durable shift, it takes a lot longer to do than plain old felled seams! And I tend to wander off, which obviously happened to this one.

I've been using detachable sleeve ruffles to cheat having to make a long-sleeved shift up til now, but it did occur to me that ruffles will not be as appropriate for the upcoming peasant wear, so...while the shift was at hand, I pulled it out and worked on it most of this afternoon. Not bad progress: both sleeves are now on, and I've set in one gore. The damn thing is all bits and pieces, in different linens, since I think this was a scrap-bin shift. Brilliant idea. Unless I actually wanted a finished shift. Good job, Past Me. Ugh. Still, it looks a lot more shift-like than when I started today!


9 Aug 2017 11:59 pm
mandie_rw: (1860sgburg)
I fitted the mockup of the trousers today, which I then used for lining. Surprisingly they weren't too horrible to re-fit...mainly because the back of the waistband has that buckle and tab thingie going on, so the finished trousers will still be adjustable. Good.

I took a pretty big wedge out from the outside seam, from waist to hip, and pinched out about 1.5" all the way down on the inseam, but that was it. Helps that '60s men's trousers seems to be fairly dumpy anyway (not to mention late Victorian women's riding trouser patterns I've seen are hella dumpy) so there's no great need to try and make them flattering anyway, LOL.

Got the wool pieced together - since it was in two pieces, there wasn't one that was long enough for trouser legs. Which is fine, since the seam will be hidden by the short skirt anyway. Also good because I didn't bother lining up the plaids. xD I'm hand-basting all the lining and wool pieces together - honestly I'm so lazy it's not something I'd usually do with wool and a cotton lining since they're usually "sticky" enough to stay, but trousers are a whole new realm of Ways To Mess Up, so I'd rather things not be able to shift anywhere! About 1.5 pieces basted currently.
mandie_rw: (germantown)
I finished the coarse linen cap, and sternly told myself that I have to work on G'burg for at least a couple of days before I dither around in the 18thc again! I did take my brown linen out and lay it with the navy wool for my proposed bed gown/petti combo, and didn't like it, so promptly turned around and sold the linen to [personal profile] hiraimi  to finance the purchasing of differently-colored linen instead. (I'm not counting it as not-from-stash since it essentially breaks even!) Not sure what color yet, but something fall-ish!

I also just had time to cut out a mockup of my rational dress trousers - I bought a McCall's Civil War man-pants-pattern to use for it. I know it'll need some fit-tweaking (as I haven't got much of a bust but I do not have man-waist-to-hip ratio), but really I more wanted the directions of how the f to put pants together, as I could probably have wrangled the pattern shapes, but an unguided fly-front is completely beyond me. (I think I've made two pairs of pants, ever, and they were both pajama pants, so.) It'll be an adventure!

mandie_rw: (fort mifflin)
I let myself work on whatever the heck I felt like today, which resulted in working on both 1860s and 18thc, and not really getting a whole lot of either done. I did hem up a striped linen kerchief I found in the accessories box while I was perusing my peasant options last night; I really thought I went through a while back and hemmed the couple kerchiefs I'd been sneakily wearing for years unhemmed. Apparently missed that one.

Also made up most of a cap from one of my Country Wives patterns from some fairly coarse linen...I want to try out a couple variations from their patterns (I've been buying them somewhat compulsively for years and I think have now acquired all the ones I want. I think they're nice patterns!) for Peasanty Unfashionable Caps options. It's so much less work than a fancy cap that I don't at all making more than one to see which I like best! (Stitches that would fill me with horror on a fine linen or silk cap can't even be seen on this weave of linen; I can hem so much faster! It's great. Feels very naughty.) Plus I bet I can unload any I decide not to keep on the unsuspecting Local Suspects. xD

mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
I guess it's going to be all 1860s, all the time around here from now least til I get tired of it. ;) Today I:

- Ran out of matching thread for the short hoop, and managed to leave my card at home when I went to work tonight, so I couldn't pick up a new spool. Oops. Off tomorrow so I won't be able to get said spool til Monday night. Oops. Oh well, got plenty of other stuff to do! (Although the spool to match the rational dress is getting low too, so it probably won't be that either...)

- I think I've decided on a theme for my fancy dress outfit; I've been mulling over Gypsy vs Starry Night vs Titania for the past couple of days. Gypsy would definitely be the cheapest as I could use almost all stash stuff, but Robin pointed out that makes her think of the Ren Faire, and not in a good way, haha. Titania could be fun as I would wear my hair down with those extensions I bought for the pre-Raphaelite outfit a couple years ago, but I'm less excited about the actual outfit when compared with the hair, LOL. Starry Night would require buying fabric, but I still have a bunch of spangles in silver and gold hanging around somewhere, and that would be the main embellishment. And I think I have the clearest idea of what exactly I'd make for that! So I think it'll be Starry Night.

- In an attempt to clear off my workspace a bit (ha ha ha), I put the fastenings on the two rational dress skirts, and started sewing the frogs on my bathrobe, aka 1860s wrapper. The original intent was to trim the edges of the quilted panels with narrow cord, use wider cord and tassel for the belt, and put frogs on for closures, none of which happened for G'burg 2015!
plaid skirts
(Plaid skirts on top of each other. Very exciting.)
I couldn't find the perfect combination of qualities in frogs that I wanted - the right color, not horribly polyester-y, and cheap because I needed around 15 of them - before Gettysburg last time, so I went without; this year I was determined to have some kind of fastening! So I compromised on the frogs: these were 4.50 for a lot of 10, so I bought 2 sets, they're not really the color I wanted but white is better than black and at this price point there isn't much selection, and they're pretty damn polyester-y but I'll live. When you only need two or three frogs, a couple bucks apiece is doable, but not when you need a dozen. :P
wrapper  frog fastenings
(I could have bought some rayon cord and made my own, but...come on, it's a bathrobe! I might consider it for a gown but not a bathrobe.)

I got them mostly sewn on before work; just the second half of six left to do. I still want to find some narrow cord for trim, but I'm not sure which color to do now, since the frogs are screamingly white, and the quilted silk is...not. But fastenings were most important, so (almost) check that off the list. Woo!

mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
I'm STILL MIFFED THOUGH. *makes rude gesture towards Belvidere planning committee*

I got the rational dress basque-bodice mockup about half-fitted before hearing the Belvidere news, which put me out of the mood fro dealing with fiddly mockups! It's going in the right direction but I need to cut out another one to get the waist in just the right place. It's been a while since I had to really do a lot of work on a mockup so I'm out of practice with the amount of patience I need!

So, shifting gears a bit - I went back to the fancy dress costume instead. Hoop has to come first - even though I've decided (sadly) that I can't do the Hell Dress justice this go-round (maybe next time we go!), my main interest in having a fancy-dress costume at all is the totally absurd short hoops that many of the outfits have. So the hoop really has to come first!

Way back when I started planning, I was just going to cut up a cheap ebay hoop - then it got here and I realized what a truly awful shape it had, plus who really wants to wear trash bag fabric to a ball? ugh, sweaty - so then I was going to use the boning and a lot of twill tape and copy the shape of my current cage as closely as I could - and this week I decided that would require more brainpower than I wanted to use, so I decided to just make a fabric hoop skirt instead. I prefer cages in general, but this won't get a whole lot of wear, so, eh, that's alright.

I've had the Laughing Moon hoops and bustles pattern for ages, but hadn't had occasion to actually use it nor closely look at it til yesterday - and you guys, what is up with the "bell-shaped hoop", view A? It's got two steels right up on the hips! Call me crazy but that reminds me more of RenFaire than CivWar...anyway, I decidedly do not want shelf hips, and it's pretty narrow anyway, so I looked at the pattern pieces for the elliptical. But it's really too elliptical for what I have in mind, so I went back to view A, stared at it, squinted, and decided I could probably redraw a couple of lines and make it Close Enough.

So I mercilessly axed the hip bump, and ended up adding about 10" to the hem width, which I cut off at knee-level. So the circumference ends up being around 100", which is fairly close to my 108" cage, but since it's that wide up at knee-level it looks entirely ridiculous. Even more so than a regular hoop. ;) I stuck a bone in the channel at the hem as soon as I put that on, to double check this plan hadn't gone entirely awry...I think it'll be presentable. Won't have quite the nice backward thrust (ahem) of the cage, but I'll stick a bumpad in there to hold it out and call it good enough.

It's made of a vaguely ugly shade of olive green cotton broadcloth, as I had that on hand and it was one of the few fabrics I didn't pick up and instantly think, "but I want to use this for this other purpose!" (This is why I buy $1.50 fabrics when I see them, yes.) It's not especially exciting without pictures, but I promise it's not especially exciting with pictures either, at this point! Fairly busy tomorrow but maybe I'll get the rest of the twill tape channels sewn on, and then I'll get a boring picture of it.

mandie_rw: me in late victorian dress holding book (natformbeige)
I bought one more attempt at navy flannel for the bathing costume, since the FFC wool sale goes through tonight...and if it shows up and is also not flannel/ too heavyweight, I will give up my somewhat ridiculous quest and use the backup fabric I also bought! (Needed a certain amount to get free shipping, as usual, so...might as well. And if all other use fails, well, I do need to step up my school-appropriate wardrobe sewing and I'm attempting to transfer my natural-fibre-snobbery to my everyday wardrobe as well as my costumes, so I can use it for that.)

In sewing news, I finished the long skirt apart from fastenings and the pocket that I just now remembered that I forgot! I have a tendency to make skirts a titch too short, so I made this one longer...unsurprisingly it's now a titch too long. Typical. It's quite floor-length, which I don't love, personally. Not long enough that I want to take off the binding and shorten it, though, so I'll just have to hoik my skirt when I walk. ;)

mandie_rw: (1860sgburg)
Just finished binding the long skirt to go with the rational dress (so, the less-rational part of the dress? haha). I know I should be using wool braid, but I'm still too cheap to shell out for it, so I've continued the tradition I started with the plaid silk dress, and just used strips of wool fabric on the straight. I know it won't wear as well but my 1860s dresses really don't get that much wear, so. It's strips of a weird, sort of ugly, waffle-weave blue-and-brown mid-weight wool that I probably will never actually use so I don't mind devoting some of it to hem binding.

And I got my FFC wools today, woot woot!
Navy and white check: very nice! Would be hard to resist starting on the early '80s dress I want to make from it right now if I wasn't still dead chuffed with how the beige print turned out; thankfully that temptation isn't overpowering.
Blue and ivory lightweight stripe: reasonably nice for a blend. It didn't give percentages but burn test says it's definitely more wool than poly. Probably 60, maybe 70% wool. It doesn't pleat nicely though, just from scrunching it up in my hands, so I may not do the "sack" back variation of the tea gown. Will have to mull that over. Definitely adequate for my tea gown for Belvidere though.
Midnight navy flannel: is...not flannel. I'm not sending it back, because it's a really lovely, deliciously soft and drapey lightweight wool that I may or may not be cuddling with at this very moment...but it's decidedly a plain twill, not a flannel. I haven't quite decided whether to use it for the bathing costume yet...pros: it is a nice lightweight 100% wool that won't itch at all, and this is already bathing costume fabric length #2, cons: but it isn't flannel! I really wanted flannel! might be too nice for a bathing costume that's going to get abused by the salt water and sand, I'd hate to ruin such a nice wool. Hmmmmmmm.


28 Jul 2017 11:38 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
I woke up with just a bit of a headache today - not terrible, but it did make me feel slightly too stupid for bodice mockups, so I worked on the skirts for the rational dress instead. The fabric's just a plain windowpane check so as long as I made sure the right color ran the right way, I couldn't really screw it up!

Got the short skirt all finished (I even set a pocket into the side seam and I really hate doing set-in pockets) except for fastenings and the hem, as I want to wait til I have the trousers and bodice to see if I want it any shorter (it's a couple inches below-the-knee now). The hoop-length skirt is seamed together, and the facing is about 2/3 tacked on. I want to finish that tonight, but a lap-ful of medium-weight wool was making me too hot! So I thought I'd take a DW and ice cream break for a few minutes. ;)
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
For lack of anything better to do (ha ha ha), I started work on my 1860s Rational Dress, aka. "is she wearing trousers???" It was mostly mental work - I double and triple-checked all my measurements for skirt lengths and all that, as I'm making a bodice, trousers, knee-length(ish) skirt to go over the trousers, and a normal skirt to go over a hoop (to make sure this doesn't end up being a one-time use outfit)! I had one 2 yd piece and one 4.75 yd piece, so I wanted to make sure I wasn't screwing anything up! So far, so good.

I cut all the lengths and very carefully labeled them; I'll have to piece in the trouser tops from about the hip to the waist...but as they'll always be under the short skirt, that's fine. I then pulled out all my options for the contrast waistcoat and stared at them for about half an hour, trying to decide which one to use. I think I've decided to go with the cream wool over the tan woolen, mainly because I want to make the cuffs and collar out of brown velveteen scraps...and it's the same velveteen and tan wool that I made my paletot out of, which might be a little too much of the same fabrics in one weekend for me. I think the cream option will be very "smart" with the pinkish-toned plaid!

I also cut out a mockup from my base 1860s pattern; I didn't have time to try it on over a corset but I wanted to see if it's going where I want it to. Not really! I couldn't decide whether to pleat or gore the bodice skirts (it has skirts, since it's very jacket-adjacent...I'll post my inspiration tomorrow when I'm not feeling lazy), so I pleated, and that was the wrong choice, haha. Okay, try again tomorrow!

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